Foraging the Fundy Shore with Gourmet by Nature
If carefully following a chef-slash-outdoorsman along the rugged, rocky coastline of the Fundy Shore to learn about and taste foraged foods, then enjoying an upscale picnic featuring those wild foods sounds like your idea of a good time, you need to check out Gourmet by Nature.
Led by Sean and Tara Laceby, this outdoor adventure taught us how to spot zesty greens, pungent rose petals, succulent seaweeds – and much more – in our own backyard. More specifically, along Huntington Point Beach, about 35 minutes outside of Wolfville. Following a warm welcome with hot chaga tea (a cold-climate mushroom harvested on birch trees) on the beach, Tara describes how she and her husband got into this seasonal side gig, which is driven by a genuine passion for harvesting and using wild foods.
“This is our kick-off for our eighth season,” said Tara during our late June experience. “Sean and I, ten years ago, were raising our small family. We were really questioning what we’re trying to do,” she explained of the non-stop grind of work and kids. At the time, Sean was a chef at the Blomidon Inn in Wolfville, his family business, and Tara was (and is) a teacher. They decided that Sean would step back from the demanding culinary life and become a stay-at-home parent, while Tara would continue to teach.
“With that time and space, we started to think about what it is we love. We came up with the idea of Gourmet by Nature,” said Tara. “We want to share with people the awareness that there is so much food here [in Nova Scotia].” Following this introduction, we were off for a walk led by Sean.
Foraging the Coastline
Sea Rocket
The first green we discovered was called sea rocket. This member of the mustard family looks a little like a pock-marked, heartier arugula growing on the high tide line. It tastes hot with a pungent horseradish flavour. We could easily imagine this as a vibrant, spicy addition to any summer salad.
Oyster Leaf
Also grown on the high tide line, these sage green-coloured leaves are known for tasting vaguely like oysters. A member of the borage family, they smell a bit like mushrooms and are lovely in a salad of mixed greens.
Sea Truffle
Closer to the water, we looked at several types of seaweed. Sea truffle lived up to its name by mimicking the savouriness of land truffles, offering a rich and deeply earthy flavour. Its culinary uses are vast, and we were excited to see how it would be worked into the picnic.
Knotted Wrack
This variety of seaweed is common on the shores of Nova Scotia and can be easily spotted by its knotted appearance. It has a briny, umami taste and has been compared to oysters because of its rich minerality. (As a note, Bay of Fundy seaweeds are a source of calcium, iron, potassium, magnesium, vitamin B, C, protein, and fiber!)
Beach Rose Petals
These vibrant pink rose petals surprised us with their pungent, fruity, acidic flavour. Later in the season, beach rose hips are also a versatile ingredient, especially nice for making jell
Picnic on the Beach
Following the walk with Sean, boxed picnic meals were ready to go thanks to Tara. We brought our own blanket and found somewhere to settle in and enjoy the spread that the couple had designed and prepared using the wild foods we just learned about, plus some from their own garden.
Using their eight-year-old starter, the picnic began with a delightful sourdough milk roll and citrusy spruce-tip-infused whipped butter. Following that, we dug into “fresh fundy rice rolls” (their take on fresh spring rolls) featuring local lobster and scallops, sea truffle, serrated and knotted wrack, and Irish moss foraged seaweeds. Carefully tucked inside were stunning nasturtiums (another edible flower), and these were served with a maple-peanut dipping sauce.
A salad of wild greens accompanied the fresh rolls and featured oyster leaf, dandelion greens, roasted parsnips, and fresh asparagus. A foraged sumac and maple dressing came on the side. Dessert was extremely indulgent (and generously portioned): a chocolate-chaga torte with Annapolis Valley strawberries and luscious crème anglaise.
After cleaning up all of our (environmentally-friendly) packaging, we left the beach as we found it. Gourmet by Nature operates from late spring into the early autumn, with a picnic menu showcasing seasonal, foraged foods that changes up weekly. Get more information on what Sean and Tara are up to via their Instagram or website. (Insider tip: wear the right footwear for the rocky beach walk.)
